harvest reports
The Story Inside the Story - Viticulture and Winemaking Update
October 5, 2004 - Harvest 2004
Nobody can remember a harvest like 2004. It was early, it was fast and it ended in record time. One winery reported that it was the earliest start and finish to harvest in their 124-year history. An unusually long heat spell in September that lasted over 20 days pushed all varieties to ripeness at the same time. Maturity was quickened even more by a light crop load and extremely dry spring and summer conditions (remember the fires in Sonoma). Vineyard and winery workers are exhausted after almost 30 straight days of harvest. We are very happy with the quality that has been revealed so far.
Here's what we see by varietal:
Sauvignon Blanc - Crop down 30-35%. Quality is excellent with beautiful grassy, hay and floral flavors. All Sauvignon Blanc was harvested before the heavy heat set in.
Carneros Chardonnay - Crop size slightly below average. Quality looks very good. Wines are nicely balanced and flavorful with crisp acidity due to the relatively cool summer. Some tonnage harvested during the heat spell was a little beat.
Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir - Crop size slightly below average. Quality is excellent. Perfect spring and summer conditions gave these wines perfect balance and beautiful pinot flavors. All was harvested before the heat could affect them.
Sonoma County Merlot - The first vintage in several years with a normal crop size and the best vintage we've seen for quality since 1994-95. Nice berry aromas, no herbal or vegetative flavors this year.
Sonoma County Syrah - Crop down 10-15%. Very good quality. Big fruit, dark, plenty of ripe round flavors.
Cabernet Sauvignon - Crop down 25-30%. It's still a little early to be definitive about quality since almost all Cabernet Sauvignon was harvested in the last 10 days and it is just starting to ferment. Growers were sitting on the edge of a sharp sword, if they picked too early to avoid the heat, they got green flavors and hard tannins. If they waited, they lost crop to dehydration, but got some nice flavors and soft tannins. We waited until the last week of September to pick and were rewarded with some beautiful grapes, but we definitely lost tonnage to the harsh sun and heat.
This year, the seasons in California advanced early. By the fall equinox, September 22, summer subsided and fall conditions were rapidly upon us three to four weeks ahead of usual. Trees are changing color, birds are moving and the rains are already in the forecast for this weekend. When you look at it from this perspective, everything is as it should be.
More... later, Mike
Benziger family and crew salute the final 2004
estate grapes harvested on October 1.